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The main event in Milan today is the Gucci show. This is one of the most well-known fashion houses that’s been in a slump the last couple of years. But now they’ve brought in Demna, and today was his first runway collection for the brand. Over his decade at Balenciaga, Demna’s work increased sales from $350 million to over $2 billion – this, of course, is before the Controversy, and the campaign that resulted in mega backlash.

Now there’s been a reset, with so many creative directors playing musical chairs at all the fashion houses. Alessandro Michele left Gucci for Valentino. Pierpaolo Picciolo left Valentino is now at Balenciaga. And Demna exited Balenciaga to land at Gucci. Which is why today’s show was so highly anticipated. Which is also why he brought in some heavy hitters on the catwalk. Like Kate Moss.

You can see the Demna influence right away. Under Alessandro Michele, Gucci was loud, brash, and boho weird whimsy. Demna is going full sexy bombshell, with the slinky dresses and the exposed thong. Anything that’s overly soft and feminine, with prints for example, is offset against leather. Here’s Kate in a high-neck black dress with the party in the back but for me, the showstopper is slide three, the gold one. It’s pretty f-cking special. I wonder who will end up snatching it for a red carpet appearance.